The tour coach zig-zags down into the depths of the Cleddau Canyon and turns under a dense canopy of rainforest into the village at the head of the sound. Across the silky-black waters, a sharp-edged pyramid of rock rises abruptly out of the depths and soars 1,700 metres to a conical peak that appears to pierce the sky.
Ease your kayak around a bushclad headland and drift silently under overhanging branches into a secret cove. The dark green foliage of the forest is reflected in the calm, clear water, and streaks of sunlight seem to dance over the ripples from your wake.
Sit awhile on the willow-fringed shoreline in Wanaka township and soak up the view. Crystal clear waters lap the pebbly shore and take on a deep blue hue further out, dramatically reflecting a dozen snow-capped peaks in the Mt Aspiring National Park.
The rush of white water is mesmerising. It is impossible to discern a pattern in the heaving, roaring maelstrom, but the sheer power of 400 tonnes of water per second cannot be ordered or contained.
'Thar She Blows!' The cry goes out and our cruise boat heads off in hot pursuit of a broaching sperm whale. The skipper adroitly positions the vessel parallel to the mammoth creature, staying the mandatory distance away.
Massive sand dunes stand solid and unmoveable against the terrible onslaught of pounding seas. The dunes rise up from the harbour entrance like miniature mountain ranges, painted a brilliant golden hue by the sunlight.
You find yourself in a wonderland of pristine whiteness - ice pinnacles, blue crevasses, deep caves and towering seracs. The glorious crispness and purity of this jumbled icefall is truly astounding.
As the beech forest canopy opens up to reveal majestic snow-capped mountains, you know for sure this is one of New Zealand's finest scenic highways. Mirror lakes fringe the Eglinton Valley road and ferns, mosses and lichens carpet the forest floor.
A gigantic arched cavern separates your luxurious beach from Mare's Leg Cove. Through the yawning cavern are views of lush native forest on the Whitianga shoreline. Offshore is a pristine marine reserve, alive with many species of sea life.
Coastal landscapes don't get more windswept and wild than this. Here you will find ancient trees, caves, waterfalls, jagged points, surf-pounded beaches, rare species of flora and fauna and a petrified forest thrown in for good measure.
